Roadus Terminus Llegada

Yikes, has it really been a week since I last blogged? I suppose it has.

Anyway, we left Yuma and headed north on 95. Our first stop was at the Kofa National Wildlife Refuge. Didn't really know what to expect, except more, yet to our surpise we came upon a really cool ghost town--Crystal Dome mining town. Now, it was not entirely deserted. In fact, it had been mined within the past 30 years or so. But the buildings and relics made it seem like we'd stepped back in time for just a bit.




Then we headed on up the desert to California and Blythe, the home of the famous Intaglios (very large petroglyphs made on the ground). Not quite as intriguing as we'd hoped (tough to see the full extent of the glyphs without a plane), but we found some really cool rocks and so loaded up our overloaded car and headed on.

That night we stayed in Palm Springs, CA--the former home of Sonny Bono and lots of over watered lawns. The motel we stayed in was surrounded by beautiful snow peaked mountains. Not much more to report here, expect that their collection of wind farms looks like the back lot of Star Wars movie. On we go...

Next day, we take an unintended side trip into Los Angeles and Hollywood. We do the typical touristy thing and drive down Sunset Blvd, Rodeo Drive, go over the Graumanns Theater where--behold--Mathew gets his picture taken with Darth Vader and a storm trooper. This was quite the event because Mathew discovered Star Wars on this trip. But, no time for gawking we have to push on. And after a very nice lunch at the Natural Cafe in Simi Valley, we have our one and only traffic situation of the trip where we're almost killed by a an out of control driver on the highway. We still don't know what happened, but fate was with us and we avoided any contact. We continue our drive up US 101 and the Pacific Coast Highway and stay in Santa Maria, CA in what has to be the worst hotel of the stay (barring Pasgagoula, MS).

The next day is our last of this trip. We leave Santa Maria, head up the coast, stop in Pismo Beach to see the Butterflies (Pismo is an overwintering site for Monarch butterflies because of its micro-climate), we stop in San Simeon and see elephant seals and sea lions arriving for mating season--we were fortunate to see a baby seal that was born the night before. After San Simeon, we continued again up the coast into the rugged picturesque coastline of Big Sur. This took a bit longer but was well worth it because it was a gorgeous day and we had never been there. Take note - only do this drive during daylight and besides it's the view you are there for. Stopped in Santa Cruz for a quick bite and then by night fall we landed in San Francisco and put a close to a nearly 7000 mile journey (we were four miles short) that brought us to places we'd never been to, places we've loved, and places we'll come back to (and even a few we won't).

We'll continue the blog (though less frequently) as California offers so much to do and see, I'm sure we'll have more than our share just getting out and exploring. So, thanks for sticking with us and check in from time to time to see where the Biltonens have been today!

Cheers, Have a safe and happy 2009!!

From Tucson to Yuma in a Day

Wednesday December 17 2008
Tucson, AZ

We head west from Tucson through the Tohono O'Odham nation on Arizona highway 86. We pass through the heart of the Arizona Sonora desert and end up on I-8 at Gila Bend, AZ. We head west to Yuma and hit some beautiful country and heavy rain storms. Ironically, Yuma is known for its warmth and lack of rain; but we hit chilly weather and a cold rain. But that's OK. We inadvertently tour Yuma's farm country and see citrus, lettuce, livestock, and more. Outside of Yuma, we see huge cattle feedlots and I finally understand the nature of corporate hamburger farms (that's really what they are).

Today,we head to Quartzsite, Blythe, and Joshua Tree. Apparently there is absolutely nothing to do in Quartzsite unless you're a rock hound. In Blythe, there are geoglyphs--very large petroglyphs. And in Joshua Tree National Park there are __________ (can you guess?).

By Saturday we'll be in San Francisco and ready to start our new life.

Saguaros and Red Rock

Tuesday December 16 2008
Tucson, AZ

Coming to Tucson was a great choice. We're in shorts and t-shirts and Flagstaff is getting hammered with snow. While we don't get to see the Grand Canyon yet, at least we're not stuck in a snow bank.

Our trip from Flagstaff was basically uneventful: a little snow, a little rain, but mostly good driving. We found the Roadrunner Hostel just on the outskirts of town and were incredibly happy. Not only is the hostel funky (but quiet with good folks running it and great waffles) but it was incedibly relaxing. That's in stark contrast the Hanoi train station of hostel we stayed at in Flagstaff. Oh well, it is all part of the journey. We stay an extra night in Tucson.



With the change in plans, we have to figure out new things to do. We head west to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum and Saguaro National Park. We had heard good things about the museum but did not know what to expect. When we got there, we saw it was mroe than a giatn cactus garden. It was part zoo, part natural history museum, part environmental education center, and part playground. We saw and experienced the wide diversity of animal and plant life of the Sonoran Desert (side note: Arizona is perhaps the most biologically diverse state in the US with eight life zones from desert to alpine mountains). This included mountain lions, Mexican wolves, otters, tarantuals, rattlers, scorpions, cactus+, and javalinas. But the highlight was a raptor free flight event where the supervisors released four Harris hawks to fly over, under, and into the crowd (no injuries!). It took about 3 hours to do the whole zoo and it was well worth it.




Afterwards we went to the Saguaro National Park (the zoo is in the Park) driving tour. I hate to say it, but the NP was anti-climactic after the museum. Though not entirely true, once you've seen tens of thousands of saguaro cacti, you've seen them all. So, we looked at other things and the vistas.

After getting back to the hostel, we made a nice pasta dinner and enjoyed some wonderful company. I have to say that the Roadrunner Hostel is a definite recommendation to anyone traveling.

Tomorrow: Yuma!

Rattlers, cacti, and scorpions...oh my!!

Tuesday December 16 2008
Tucson, AZ

About a dozen years ago, I made a trip to the desert southwest with a friend of mine. We flew into Phoenix, used Tucson as a staging site, then went to Organpipe National Monument, Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge, and finally across the border and into Sierra Pinacate National Park in Sonora, Mexico. Author and lifelong desert rat Ed Abbey confessed to being intimidated by the Pinacate, a bit more than by any other part of the Sonoran desert. He wrote of El Pinacate:

“This is the bleakest, flattest, hottest, grittiest, grimmest, dreariest, ugliest, most useless, most senseless desert of them all.“

But he loved it anyway. So did I.

I brought two books: one by Joseph Wood Krutch the other by Charles Bowden, and spent the days hiking in the early morning or late afternoon, the middle of the day watching the lizards watch me, and the nighttime examining the heavens. And this was only March.

Yesterday Debbie asked me what it was about the desert I loved so much. (She’s rainforest person, after all, and the bleakness of deserts stand in stark contrast.) I did not have a good answer, but to say that there was something visceral about them. This morning I woke up thinking about what it was that I loved and I realized that experiencing the desert on its own terms was a Zen-like experience. Or fasting. On its surface a desert appears empty and biological void. But beneath and within its dry, rocky shell is an environment bubbling with life…especially at night. Even during the day when you start to look deeper at what’s in front of you, the sheer biological diversity and spiritually enriching energy in the desert it humbling. The desert forces you to look deeper; beyond your mind’s own limitations. And once you do, there’s nothing like it—in heart or mind.

We didn't make it to Pinacate this time, but we came close. We enjoyed several days in the Sonoran desert and now it is off to the Mojave Desert where the Joshua Tree is the guardian, just as the saguaro is the guardian to the Sonoran. It looks like for the next two days we’ll still be fighting the weather…somewhat at least. Even heading to Death Valley isn’t reasonable, so we’re going to the coast. See you on the other side.

Tucson Bound!

Monday December 15 2008
Flagstaff, AZ

Last night we stayed at the World Famous Grand Canyon Hostel. A big old place with a lot of persona and character. But, boy was it loud. They warn you about the trains, but don’t tell you about the rowdy Germans. Nonetheless, we managed to get some sleep and are now headed south. The weather service predicted 15 -30 inches of snow by 6pm. That’s almost above Mathew’s head. I guess the universe doesn’t want us to see the Grand Canyon…yet. I have put off going to southern Utah and northern Arizona for many years because when I do get there I want to spend some time, perhaps even float down the Green River. Be careful what you wish for, I guess. I was looking forward to seeing the Canyon.

Just south of Prescott (Black Canyon City) we descend below 3000’ and see Saguaro cacti for the first time on their trip. Actually, I don’t think we were going to see any given our original itinerary, so this is a great surprise. We stopped in to see the Montezuma Castle National Monument--ancient cliff dwellings--that ironically had nothing to do with Aztecs or Montezuma. They were crazy to think about living in. Makes you really appreciate a roof and heat. Now on to Tucson……

In Gilbert, AZ we eat at Joe’s Real BBQ. Interesting name that stinks of bad marketing, but the BBQ is fantastic. Not the best (the meat was a tad dry), but the baked beans, habañero sauce, dry rub chicken, rootbeer, and mac and cheese were killer. We get down to Tucson with full bellies and check in to the Roadrunner Hostel. The RR was a stark contrast to the Grand Canyon Hostel: quiet, pleasant, waffles…..and 60 degrees. Lovin southern Arizona. Today, we’ll hit the Saguaro NP and Sonora Desert Museum. Every day is an adventure from here on out.

Petrified

Sunday December 14 2008
Petrified Forest National Park, AZ

This morning we left Gallup, NM with a car coated in ice and snow. Good thing the wind had died down. Traveling across I-40, we could see the edge of the storm front…it was clear and sunny to the north and cloudy and gray to the south. When we got to the Petrified Forest National Park and Painted Desert, it was cold, cloudy, but with scattered sunshine. Sun was perfect for the Painted Desert as the light made the colors jump out. Not so necessary for the petrified forest, which was good because there wasn’t any sunshine in that part of the park. Once again, pictures do not do the parks justice. Nonetheless…. It was absolutely extraordinary, breathtaking, awesome, words cannot describe the splendor.

We left PFNP and headed for a lunch in Holbrook, NM. Looked for Joe and Aggie’s (another Roadfood.com rec) but it was closed so we ate at Mr. Maesta’s. Tasted good, but by the time all of the salt hit our systems, I was suffering big time. Oh well, that was my “chicken fried steak on Route 66” experience. Actually, it was the first CFS I had since Missoula, MT.

So many of these small places in the SW don’t appear to have changed much in 50 years. Reminds me of the SW towns I saw in pictures when I was younger. Lots of independent, western style hotels and motels, restaurants, shops, etc. The real west. After we left, Holbrook we headed for Flagstaff, AZ. We could see Humphrie’s Peak (highest pt in AZ at 13000’) from nearly 70 miles away.

Cold Rain & Snow

Saturday December 13 2008
Gallup, NM

We arrived in Gallup, NM and then cruised the strip looking for a place to stay. Lots of hotels, but none reasonable or acceptable. So I made a command decision and picked a Days Inn. Not quite the Plaza, but very nice. I loved the trains running outside our door all night long. A real western US experience. We had dinner at El Sombrero. Filled with locals and Mexicans, so I figured we couldn’t go wrong (or not too wrong). Besides it was AAA recommended. Ttthhhhpppphhh! Basically, we have had better.